Think not of dessert as the end of the meal, but rather, as the beginning of the best part of your night (or afternoon, if you have taken, like I have, to the lost art of lunchtime dessert-ing, all the rage for 2012). The best desserts are not always the fanciest or the fussiest or the most expensive, but the ones you suddenly crave, out of the blue, and are compelled to find a way to consume as soon as possible. The seven decadent gems below have been haunting me lately. Dig in!
Cranachan, The Beagle: Scotch often is dessert, so discovering a way to enjoy it a bit more modestly was clutch. The Beagle is charming and delicious and spot-on on so many levels, but their interpretation of this traditional Scottish treat pushed them over the edge of awesome. Cranachan is a bit like a simple, boozy trifle or pudding, with just fresh cream, oats, our friend Scotch, and seasonal fruit—right now they’re using honeycrisp apples. Like nothing you’ve ever had, but everything you’ve ever wanted, 162 Avenue A, 212-228-6900.
Chocolate Budino, Barbuto: Sometimes they’ll make chef Jonathan Waxman’s friend Nancy Silverton’s butterscotch recipe, which is also so super it’s hard to write about it without my mouth watering, but this basic Italian chocolate pudding with whipped cream is exquisitely satisfying. Creamy, rich, deep and unshareable, 775 Washington Street, 212-924-9700.
Ice Cream Cake, Parm: It’s kind of the best thing that happened in 2011. Yes, there is a lot of hype and often annoying waiting involved at Parm. Yes, this dessert makes you forget whatever happened before it was served. Mind-bogglingly luscious, homemade gelato in pistachio, cherry and chocolate is layered with those chocolate crunchies and weirdly yummy white outer coating like you remember from Carvel. Important tip: if you are with anyone but a bird-like eater who really can’t be tempted, you’re gonna need two, 248 Mulberry St, 212-993-7189.
Beignets at The Little Owl: Perfectly crispy, chewy, hot and fluffy just like beignets should be, you must always make room for these, no matter how many sliders you’ve had, and dip them in the accompanying Nutella and raspberry sauce, 90 Bedford Street, 212-741-4695.
Doughnuts at Flex Mussels and Flex Donuts (pictured): I got to know Zac Young’s whimsical, devilishly superb desserts when he was a long-lasting contestant on the first season of “Top Chef Just Desserts.” He once gave us a dish involving a whoopie pie going on a tropical vacation and hooking up with a nice coconut fellow…and all of his creations are equally inventive and addictive, most especially his donuts. Salted caramel is an unholy delight, wild blueberry, peaches and cream and PB&J are divine, but you really can’t go wrong. If you’re at Grand Central, grab a bunch at his Flex Donuts pop-up, 154 West 13th Street, 174 East 82nd Street.
Canelé at Dominique Ansel Bakery: Formerly the pastry chef at Daniel, the gifted Dominique Ansel opened a jewel-box of a bakery in Soho this year, complete with indoor garden and sweet and savory indulgences to be enjoyed all day long. It’s hard to pick the best, but I’m partial to his canelé, a chewy, carmel-y on the outside, creamy, custardy on the inside, fluted cylinder of delight that hails from Bordeaux. They’re a simple classic, but really, really hard to get just right, and he sure does, 189 Spring Street, 212-219-2773.
Pie at Four & Twenty Blackbirds: Sisters Melissa and Emily Elsen have been cranking out the tastiest darn pies in all the land from their Gowanus storefront to rave reviews for a few years, and I hope they keep going for a hundred more. Their use of seasonal ingredients and experimentation with new flavor combinations is impressive and fun, their crust is pitch-perfect, and their balance of savory and sweet (see: their Salted Caramel Apple and Salty Honey pies) is right on. 439 Third Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-499-2917.
Flex Donuts photo by Daniella Zalcman.
